Moerlein Lager House
The Moerlein Lager House was fully booked on the warm November Saturday evening of our visit. As we approached the building, my husband and I immediately understood why. From the porch seating area to the spacious, well-designed foyer inside, the microbrewery is exceptionally inviting. A grand yet modern stairway welcomes guests to the second floor, which offers the ambiance of a lodge in the city, featuring a beautiful view of the Ohio River, the Roebling Suspension Bridge, and Northern Kentucky. While the experience is affordable, the atmosphere feels exclusive. It’s a community gathering spot with balconies upstairs and downstairs for outdoor dining.
While waiting at the bar for our reserved table, we ordered a flight of four house-made craft beer samples, including two lagers: Helles and German-Style Schwarzbier, as well as an IPA and an English Ale. Sampling from lightest to darkest, Moerlein’s Helles Lager was first. It has a light golden color and a slight foamy head. Balanced malt and hop flavors give this medium-bodied beer a refreshing, pleasant aftertaste. It was noticeably the only sample that lacked clarity. Next was the Bay of Bengal, a deep golden classic American IPA with moderate bitterness, grapefruit notes, and a smooth, medium-bodied mouthfeel. This successful blend of unique hops makes for a highly drinkable craft IPA with a medium-dry finish.
Third was OTR, a light copper-colored, medium-bodied English Ale. It’s rich in complexity, with caramel notes and a citrusy finish. Expect moderate bitterness and a superb aftertaste from this Extra Special Bitter. Finally, the German-style Schwarzbier, Barbarossa, which pays tribute to Frederick I, Emperor of Germany, has a frothy, light-brown head. It is a smooth, dark lager with harmonious complexity, featuring malty flavors, moderate carbonation, and a delightful finish.
Upon receiving a text notification, we picked up our beer flight and moved to our table. After finishing the samples, we each ordered a regular-sized glass of the evening’s pick: I chose a Helles, and he opted for a Barbarossa. Selecting a main course from the menu’s wide range of dishes, I had the Grilled Chicken Pitas; he chose the Moer Burger. Both dishes were served with crispy, tender fries, and dinner was as delicious as the beer. Although a normal speaking volume wasn’t possible due to the large turnout, it’s an ideal place to unwind and enjoy the art of craft beer brewing. Throughout the visit, the service was consistently friendly and personable.
As we were leaving, I noticed a picture hanging in the hall next to the foyer—a reminder of the cost of political ambition. It features Carrie Nation, an activist whose name is synonymous with free-market interference, government overreach, and job loss. Prohibition (1920-1933) temporarily shut down the thriving Christian Moerlein Brewing Company, which began in 1853. Moerlein, a Bavarian immigrant, was a blacksmith and brewer who settled in Over-the-Rhine, making beer true to German standards. By 1890, his beer was shipped across the U.S. and exported to Europe and South America. Despite Prohibition’s interruption, his legacy lives on with a 172-year-old history and an ongoing invitation to enjoy fine craft beer.
